Took a few snapsh!ts at an undergraduate demo session this afternoon. Pleasantly surprised with the results, considering the amount of bad rep the lens gets in some places. I think ‘realistic expectations’ are the name of the game here; you shouldn’t expect anything amazing from a $1000 1.1, but it’s definitely a fun lens to use!
Started out at 100 ISO which was giving ample shutter speeds for handheld, but bumped up to 400 to reduce motion blur of the more enthusiastic gesticulations.
Chromatic aberration can get pretty hideous; it’ll be interesting to see how badly it affects B&W film once I’ve developed the few rolls I’ve already shot (waiting on new chemicals for the darkroom).
This was the source of the most ‘enthusiastic’ gesticulations.
This was the closest I got to capturing an “Oh sh!t, it’s broken!” moment.
Even on an APS-C sensor the DOF was too shallow for groups, but the subject isolation for individuals-in-groups wasn’t bad.
Of course an effective 85mm focal length & minimum focus distance of 1m meant backing up quite a bit!
Gave in to the temptation of a silly fast lens & picked up the Voigtlander Nokton 50mm f/1.1. I know it leaves a lot to be desired in terms of IQ, but what do you expect from a f/1.1 at this price point?
Haven’t really had a chance to properly try it out yet, except for a few snapsh!ts on the NEX-5N from behind the mixing desk at a gig last night.
Something a little different, but in the current age of ‘disposable’ consumer electronics that are glued together it was a pleasant surprise to see how nicely designed this Sony broadcast/field monitor was for regular & easy servicing. Not sure if it’s actually savable or whether the phosphors are just past it, but I have to read more of the service manual before I begin twiddling any of the 50+ (!) adjustment potentiometers…
Disclaimer: prodding the wrong part of a CRT can be fatal, even after it has been disconnected from the mains.
Once you lift the case off the sides just hinge down to expose the potentiometers, with all the wires still attached so you can make adjustments whilst the unit is running.
Just an idea of how many adjustments there are, this PCB alone has over 30 potentiometers…
Once you’re done tinkering the PCBs just hinge back up!
I usually leave such things to the hipsters, but instead of paying £10+ to have developed the 3x exposed rolls of colour negative film that resulted from handing a Mju II to friends in the pub one night I figured I would dunk them in Ilfotec HC & see what happened. Possibly the shoddiest dev job I’ve done so far, but I wasn’t exactly expecting great results so didn’t bother being too careful not to touch the emulsion & just guessed at ‘about 4-6 minutes’. All things considered the results weren’t dreadful!
Some of them came out with prominent blue tints (easily addressed in Lightroom) but as it was only some of them & not entire rolls I suspect the scanner or scanning software got confused on some frames & was the cause.
You can decide for yourself why he’s holding a boxed light bulb over his head.
At one point I apparently let a(n inebriated) friend use my NEX 5N + Zeiss Biogon 2/35 ZM, which in hindsight probably wasn’t the best idea even though it was insured!
Turned out that one of the rolls also had some truly hipsterific shots taken with an APS-C 18-55mm kitlens on a 35mm body. Vignetting is insta-art, right?
Had a few shots left on a roll of Fuji Neopan 1600 from Morocco, so I loaded it into my Зоркий-4/Zorki-4 (another Soviet rangefinder like the FED-2, can’t remember if I’ve written about it before) & put the Индустар-50/Industar-50 that I cleaned of fungus a while ago on it.
Obviously 1600 was complete overkill for the lighting conditions, but it came out okay & there’s a certain nice feeling about using a lens you’ve dismantled & serviced yourself, it makes the whole process feel a bit more ‘personal’.